Posted by: gardner310 | October 3, 2013

Revisiting

Venice, Again

Venice, Again

I’ve been in the Mediterranean now for 4 months and have been repeating ports on a regular basis.  Where I always thought I wanted new ports, places I haven’t visited, I’ve decided

I actually like this.  There is opportunity to do different things on each visit thus really accumulating more in depth knowledge of the area.  You discover what your favorite restaurant is,  the supermarket location, fastest wifi and how to negotiate the local transportation and even a little bit of the language.  Granted, it’s not the same as being able to live there for an extended period but it’s a good start.

I just finished reading The Inferno by Dan Brown and it’s set in Florence, Venice and Istanbul.  As I was listening to the book, I was able to visualize all the places he mentioned in all cities because I have been there often and taken in all the sights right down to the cistern in Istanbul.  I know exactly where Medusa’s head is located.  It was so vivid in my mind, I found myself smiling and nodding.

Summer fun

Summer fun

I think what I want to get across is that when you are choosing a vacation, don’t write some place off just because you spent one day there on a cruise.  Revisit and see something different this time or if you feel like you have seen what you need to see, then act like a local and sit in a cafe, talk to the locals and just enjoy the flavor of the place.

Posted by: gardner310 | September 24, 2013

Cefalu, Who Knew?

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Sicily is almost a country unto itself, although it is an Italian “state”.  You will hear the residents refer to themselves as Sicilian first, Italian second.  Palermo is one of the ports we use in Sicily but it is not one of my favorites.  It is a large city, busy with traffic double parked on every street, a bit trashy  with a lot of immigrant vendors pushing cheap souvenirs on the sidewalks.  There is some beautiful architecture available to view including one of the largest theaters in Europe, holding 7,000.

I chose to take a side trip out of the city to Cefalu, a lovely old seaside town.  I got to see the countryside which I always enjoy.  Agriculture is a big industry with citrus being a prime product along with olives and olive oil.
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Baja Sardinia, near Olbia

Enroute to Baja Sardinia

Enroute to Baja Sardinia

Cefalu sits on a promontory about an hour and a half from Palermo.  It is a beach resort with a delightful little town of steep winding streets, a large cathedral, an ancient bath area where women did the laundry and the Temple of Diana.  There was not enough time to see everything, unfortunately so I gave up the ruins of the temple although I did find the street so I can return later.  Bonus points are awarded to the bride who planned her wedding for exactly the time we were in the courtyard of the cathedral.
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Posted by: gardner310 | September 13, 2013

Lost Gardens of Heligan, Cornwall

The Giant, Heligan Gardens

The Giant, Heligan Gardens

Cornwall has a treasure trove of sightseeing opportunities and we did the best we could to cover a wide variety of them.  The Lost Gardens are quite near St Austell where we were living and since both couples are gardeners it was a no brainer.

At this point there are over 81 hectares or 200 acres that fall within the garden.  The Tremayne family has owned the estate and gardens for over 400 years.  They now lease the gardens to the Heligan House and the house, unfortunately, is private.  You can still get a nice view of the estate from one of the pathways.  The glory days of the gardens were in 1890 and they went into gradual decline until in 1990, they were rediscovered and recovered.

There are three distinct areas at Heligan, the Jungle, the Northern Gardens and the Horsemoor Hide.  All of course concentrate on separate species  conducive to the different climates.  Cornwall is surprisingly able to foster tropical plants with amazing success.

Three highlights of Heligan are the Mud Maid,  the Giant’s Head and the Gray Lady all done by the same

The Mud Maiden

The Mud Maiden

sculptress.  They are a wonderful combination of imagination, whimsy and talent.

It would take a couple of days to do the property thoroughly and if you were really paying attention to the many varieties of plants.  They have a retail store for plants and gardening material so you can come to “borrow” ideas and put them into play with the materials available for sale.  There are some steep areas that have warnings so some areas may not be available to those who have trouble walking so you may want to check ahead on that.

It’s an amazing property that should be on your to-do list for Cornwall, if you have any interest in gardens.

Posted by: gardner310 | September 9, 2013

Chicago Transit Authority, Take Note

Today we are in Santorini, heading back from Perissa Beach to Fira, the capital city of the island and where we board the ship.

A word on the bus transit system…
Unlike the government here ( or anywhere these days) the bus system runs like clockwork. We’ve named it the hop on/hop off bus because the bus starts up while the last person’s foot is still on the ground. There is no wasting a second or you will be 1. Yelled at by the bus driver or 2. Left standing in the road or both. The turn around in the bus station is equally fast. Tickets are purchased onboard to avoid wasting time.

CTA should send over a scout and take notes on how it works. Winter bus riders would be most grateful.

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Posted by: gardner310 | September 6, 2013

Beautiful Budapest, Hungary

My hotel, Art’otel, was on the river across from the Parliament building which provided a marvelous view at night with the lights and the river traffic.  We spent two nights together here just enjoying walking the city streets.  We did the hop on/hop off bus tour on foot because it’s better for taking photos, although it did take a bit longer.  Cafes here are just the best, always with great people watching locations and the food is excellent.

One night we walked up the steps to St Matthews Church at sunset and it was so worth the climb.  The area up there is so much quieter than down on river level and the view is to die for. (I know, never end a sentence with a preposition.)

Parliament is under construction on the street side and it is a bit confusing finding your way to the ticket office and into the building but don’t let that stop you.  Take some time and head up to the zoo and Palace where you can take a break from the busy streets and traffic. If you are taking a river cruise to and or from Budapest, be sure to take enough time in the city itself to see everything it has to offer.

Posted by: gardner310 | September 6, 2013

Jerusalem, Israel

Jerusalem from the road

Jerusalem from the road

 

Cruise itineraries are subject to change.  It’s in the brochures and on the web site.  Well this time the itinerary was changed due to the situation in Egypt and we were rerouted to Israel. We called at Ashdod and Haifa.  Shore excursions did a marvelous job in offering new tours in a timely manner and I hopped on a 9 hour trip to Jerusalem from Ashdod, “The Best of Jerusalem”.

I was in Israel in the mid eighties thanks to the Israel Tourist Board and had a fabulous trip, driving all over the country.  I always said I wanted to return.  The tour through the old city was a bit of a forced march because there

King David

King David

are a lot of sights to cover in the four quarters of the city.  Golgatha, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Western (Wailing) Wall, all memorable experiences plus the hustle of the street markets.

I have to say that I did not anticipate the crowds in the city.  It was so crowded that it was not a pleasant experience.  Summer is hot, crowded and extremely expensive so I would recommend visiting in the off season.

Garden of Gethsemane

Garden of Gethsemane

Haifa is the stop to get to the Sea of Galilee and Masada and the Dead Sea.  I had to stay in town so didn’t take the tours.  The city is quite nice with beautiful Bahai Gardens.  Again it is very expensive, especially after being in Greece and places like Montenegro.  On the other hand, the wifi is excellent.  All and all I am pleased to have been able to return to the country and would come back in the off season without a tour group in tow.

 

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Posted by: gardner310 | August 8, 2013

Hungarians Know How to Party

The walk to the ceremony

The walk to the ceremony

 

Hungarians Never Stop!

I had the great privilege to be invited to a ship friend’s wedding in Transilvania so of course I went. Michael and I split up in Budapest on Tuesday, he flying to Barcelona to the ship, and I flying to Tirgu Mures in Romania. This area of Romania is 50-75% Hungarian as is the bride who grew up in the area.

I was hosted to two nights at their new house which is a long term renovation project. The amount of work that’s been done is incredible. I had heard about the progress for some time and was very pleased to finally see it, live and in person. It sits among many small farms so the scenery is pastoral

Rural Romania

Rural Romania

and calming except for the d–n dove that woke me up 5am every morning. Had I a gun, it would be lying legs up in the yard.

each day the guest list grew until there were 26 staying in or around the house camping. Meal time was a blast with conversations in Italian, Dutch, Hungarian and me in the middle. Lots of laughing, eating and drinking. What better testimony that people who have never met can become friends over a meal. Maybe we should feed the Syrians and see what happens.

Thursday the caravan drove about 6 hours from the house to a small mountain village called Boros Patak. Our home for the next three nights was a grouping if small cabins with one, two or three rooms

My accommodations at the top of the hill

My accommodations at the top of the hill

and a bath grouped up the mountainside. I tell you I felt like an old Heidi when I climbed up one afternoon to find two goats by my front porch. The gentleman who Built the place collected all these little buildings from the area, broke them down and rebuilt them on the mountain. It has several public buildings where the wedding ceremony and reception were held for around 100 friends and family.

 

 

The day before the wedding my new friend Avril and I took a walk to the next village and after 7+ miles returned sore feet but a good sense of accomplishment and some fruit for lunch.

Shopping for melons in Borospatak

Shopping for melons in Borospatak

The day of the wedding we were assigned to put the floral centerpieces together WCC we did in an underground Hobbit type wine cellar where it was quite cool, a welcome relief from the 80 degree day. And I would like to say we did an admirable job as well.

Just before 3pm the horn blew summoning all to the bride’s house to hear the groom answer several questions from the bride’s sisters. Fortunately, he answered correctly and was given the bride by her mother who gave a lovely speech about her new son in law. From there we all walked down the mountain to where they became legal before the deputy mayor. They are such a lovely couple, happy tears were shed.

Drinks and snacks started here. At 5pm the first course, a mouth watering antipasti, was served. Then the progression of eating/smoking/dancing began. 7 pm soup, dancing, 9:30 pm meat and veg course, dancing, sweets table set out to snack on, dancing, midnight wedding cake served, dancing, cabbage rolls, dancing and around 1pm I bailed. The rest of the crowd were eating and dancing until 4-5am. Did I mention alcohol was part of this celebration? Definitely the best and longest wedding I’ve attended.

Wedding ceremony

Wedding ceremony

Sunday was time to leave for me so we had a 5 hour drive to Bucharest so I could fly to Nice to pick up the ship today in Monaco. However, a tornado blew through town and the ship left 3 of us on shore so I am currently on an 11 hour train journey to Livorno to meet the ship tomorrow. Subject for another post.

Moral of the story? If invited to a Hungarian wedding in Transilvania, accept, but be sure to bring your dancing shoes. All the best to the lovely couple.

Posted by: gardner310 | July 7, 2013

Shakespeare on the Lawn, Tofte Manor

The Lawn as the Stage

The Lawn as the Stage

To celebrate my sister’s-in-law birthday we went to see “Much Ado About Nothing” in Bedfordshire at this beautiful manor home, Tofte Manor.  It was a most delightful evening-perfect warm weather, excellent performance, picnic dinner and a fabulous setting.

Tofte Manor dates back to 1086 when it was deeded to one of the Knights Templar.  Over the years it has passed through many hands as you would expect.  The oldest part of the current house dates from 1613 and the current owners have had it in the family since 1995.  It is now available for weddings, conferences and things like this theater performance.

The performance itself was sooo much fun.  The play by Mr. Shakespeare is a comedy and it is fascinating to listen to the dialogue and relate to it today, lots of laughs.  Human nature really doesn’t change in respect to relationships.

The audience all brought picnics in various forms of elaborateness (if that’s a word).  We had shopped at Sainsbury’s deli and it turned out to be the perfect finger food, of course very English.  Pork pie, chicken thika kebabs, sausage rolls, vegetable spring rolls, mozzarella and tomato salad and various samosas with strawberries for dessert all served with wine.  I really can’t recommend this experience highly enough so if you get the opportunity check in with http://www.nolossproductions.co.uk   to see when and where they will be this summer

#TofteManor
#NoLossProductions

Front of Tofte Manor

Front of Tofte Manor

Posted by: gardner310 | July 7, 2013

Considering Cornwall, LAST Part

Mevagissey, Low Tide

Mevagissey, Low Tide

Fisherman, Cleaning Boat

Fisherman, Cleaning Boat

Cornwall is renown for its historic fishing villages.  It has miles of rugged coastline with small harbors and coves on both the north and south coasts.  So there are definitely thoughts associated with this fact.

Low tides.  Our sightseeing schedule always put us in these villages at low tide.  It got to be a joke because we never saw

Mevagissey,  Tide's In

Mevagissey, Tide’s In

any of the boats afloat.  There are huge tides here, as much as 30 feet.  One afternoon in Mevagissey we actually decided to sit with the OAP’s (Old Age Pensioners) and wait for the tide to come in so I could see the boats float.  It was a sunny but cool afternoon and most pleasant.  It was certainly better than watching paint dry because the scene actually changed as the  day wore on.

Fishing villages.  These were my favorite venues.  Colorful, small, narrow, streets, boats (albeit on the sand), lots of cafes and coffee shops and shops selling the traditional sand toys.  There is always a church whose size varies and the harbor itself, of course. During the summer there are  both wild flowers and planted flowers around every corner, it seems.

Fisherman, Bailing

Fisherman, Bailing

Fishermen.  It has to follow that with fishing villages you get bonafide fishermen.  These come in all shapes and sizes like their boats.  Watching them work on the boats or unloading the catch is a true glimpse into a different world from what most of us know.

Old/Ancient buildings.  We met a lovely lady at her cottage in St. Ives because her flowers were so lovely I had to stop and take a photo.  It turns out she lives both in Cornwall and London and does all her own gardening.  She said the earliest part of her home dates back to the 6th century!  There is sacred well by the foundation of her home.

Ancient Cottage

Ancient Cottage

Waiting for the Tide

Waiting for the Tide

Posted by: gardner310 | July 7, 2013

Considering Cornwall, Part 3

Cornish Pasties

Cornish Pasties

Traveling for me always involves food.  I like to eat and always like to try new things.  I can’t say Cornwall provided any awe inspiring meals.  We tended to eat in pubs and sandwich shops  and I’ve never been a fan of this kind of food.  That being said, the best meal I had was the lasagna at Holmwood Inn in St Austell.

Pasties.  This is the famous food of Cornwall, Cornish Pasties.  You could call it an English empanada since it’s a meat (usually) pie filling wrapped in pastry to make it take out food.  The original pasty has meat and veg in one half and a fruit filling in the other half, making it a entire meal.  As a meal it comes with chips (French fries) and veg.  They are tasty  and here it is a staple.

St Isaac Fisherman

St Isaac Fisherman

Crab.  Cornwall is famous for its crab.  Many of the fishing boats we saw were actually crabbing with traps.  The crab

sandwich (with chips) is on every restaurant menu.  Souvenir shops sells a kit for crabbing, including a bucket, a line and a net and kids are all over the wharfs trying to catch dinner.

Ice cream,  Now here is where I get interested.  I don’t eat much pastry in the way of desserts but I do like good ice cream.  In Cornwall, it is good, made with milk from local cows.  No low fat ice cream here and I’m all in favor of that.  If you are worried about calories, ice cream is not usually on your list anyway.

Cornish cheese board

Cornish cheese board

Cheese.  Between the cows and sheep here there is plenty of milk for cheese.  I made an attempt to try a few kinds and can say there wasn’t one I wouldn’t bring home.

Bacon.  I am an American and like most Americans, I love bacon.  Nice crispy bacon.  I ordered a Brie and bacon sandwich on whole grain bread with a side salad in the Truro Cathedral coffee shop.  They had a nice menu in a lovely setting and it sounded perfect.    My sandwich came with partially cooked ham with loads of fat attached.  I had totally forgotten that English bacon is really thin ham slices with all of the fat left on.  After I pulled the fat off and rebuilt the sandwich, I enjoyed my ham and cheese sandwich.

Thankfully I did a lot of walking and climbing as we toured the area but I still need to put myself back on salads quickly once we leave this country in a week and get back to the continent.

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